Black Sheep Inn is a small, award-winning eco-lodge just outside Chugchilán in Ecuador's Andes, at about 3,200 meters. It's best for hikers and slow travelers who want home-cooked vegetarian meals, a self-serve yoga studio and a wood-fired sauna after days on the Quilotoa Loop.
What it's like
Black Sheep Inn sits just outside the farming village of Chugchilán, high in Ecuador's central Andes at roughly 3,200 meters (over 10,400 feet). The lodge faces east across the Rio Toachi Canyon, and the owners like to point out that even the bathrooms have a mountain view. It calls itself an eco-lodge, and it's earned a long list of ecotourism awards over the years.
It's a small, homely place rather than a hotel. There are 8 private rooms, each with 2 double beds (a few have more), plus a shared bunkhouse, so the lodge holds somewhere between 10 and 35 guests. Nights get cold, often around 8°C, so every private room has its own wood-burning stove, the blankets are thick and the showers are hot around the clock. Dinner is served family-style at one big table, and you'll usually find people playing Scrabble by the fire afterward.
You can check the latest details and book through the Black Sheep Inn website.
The programs
This isn't a structured retreat center with a daily timetable. It's a mountain lodge where you build your own days, and it works well as a venue for groups bringing their own yoga retreat, workshop or family event.
Yoga: The lodge finished its yoga studio in 2008. It's a bright room with hardwood floors, big windows, mats, books, sofas and hammocks. When possible there's a yoga teacher in residence; otherwise practice is self-guided and guests get a key so they can use the studio any time, day or night. Massage is also available.
Sauna and hot tub: Both are heated by a custom wood stove, and they're a welcome finish after a long walk at altitude.
Hiking: This is the real draw. From the front door you can walk into the Iliniza Ecological Reserve, down into the Rio Toachi Canyon or out toward Laguna Quilotoa, a volcanic crater lake. Within 2 hours on foot you can pass through 4 distinct climate zones.
Other activities: Horseback rides with a local guide, mountain biking, frisbee golf and trips to the indigenous markets in nearby villages.
Food: All meals are vegetarian. Breakfast, a packed lunch and dinner come with your stay, as do tea, coffee and purified water. Home-baked brownies, banana bread and oatmeal cookies are available all day on your tab, and beer, wine and soft drinks are self-serve at extra cost.
Who it suits (and who it doesn't)
It's a great fit for walkers, families and anyone who likes a sociable, low-key lodge with good food and big views. Small yoga or workshop groups can use it as a base, and the lodge says it can handle week-long family events.
It's not for travelers who want a guided yoga schedule every day or hotel-style polish. Altitude is also worth taking seriously; give yourself time to adjust before long hikes.
Getting there
Chugchilán lies on the western side of the Quilotoa Loop, the circuit of mountain roads linking Laguna Quilotoa with Latacunga and the Pan-American Highway. The lodge says the whole loop is now paved. Plan on about 3.5 hours from Quito and 2.5 hours from the Pan-American Highway. The owners suggest staying 4 or 5 nights to make the journey worthwhile.
Frequently asked questions
Are meals included?
Yes. Breakfast, a packed lunch and dinner are included, and all are vegetarian.
Is there yoga every day?
Not always. A teacher is on site when possible; otherwise the studio is open for self-practice at any hour.
How cold does it get?
Nights often drop to around 8°C (56°F), which is why each private room has a wood stove.
How far is Laguna Quilotoa?
The lodge is about 6 km north of the crater lake, and you can hike there from the door.
